1980 to 1996 F150/Bronco Lift Instructions
F150 4 WD 16" Wheel Travel Parts List.
1.- Coil buckets left and right-hand assemblies, include weld-on brackets for front hoop mount, Top crossbar BA150 tabs and batwing gusset mounts.
2.- Radius arms left and right arms, with race-style lower shock brackets, make sure bushing stock is welded in place for lower limit strap mount. This is located below the shock mounts towards the front of the radius arm.
3.- Pivot brackets left and right assemblies.
4.- Traction beam 4wd housings left and right beams, make sure bushings are good and shock mounts are welded.
5.- Coil springs, check for coil insert option order.
6.- 2 BA150 assemblies for the crossbar.
7.- 4 B200's with inner sleeves, bolts, and nuts.
8.- Hardware for coil buckets, 8 - 1/2 x 1 1/4 grade 8 bolts and nuts with 16 washers 4 - 1/2 x 1 1/2 grade 8 bolts and nuts with 8 washers.
9.- Hardware for pivot brackets 8 - 1/2 x 1 1/4 grade 8 bolts and nuts with 16 washers 2 - 1/2 x 1 1/2 grade 8 bolts and nuts with 4 washers.
10.- 4 5012 and 4 5010 rancho shocks.
11.- Limit straps left side 13.25 right side 12.75" quad sewn finished length! 2 - 1/2 x 2 and 2 - 1/2 x 1 1/4 grade 8 bolts and nuts 4 washers total.
12.- Pivot bushings MOOG 8146 with new washers etc.
13.- 1pc 1 ½" 120 wall tubing bent for ac clearance. Cut tube 42" long mark bend line at 20" pull 6 3/4" on Horsfield using the 5” radius die set.
14.- “Shock bolts”, 6 - 1/2 x 5" Long grade 5, and 2 - 2 1/2" long and 2 - 3 1/2" long with nilox nuts.
15.- “Shock bolts” for sway away 2.5” shocks all 8 total ½” x 2 ½” long, use top lock nut, we stock grade 8 coarse thread bolts for this, toplock nut is shorter than nilox for better thread fit.
Basic Installation procedures.
You will be removing the entire stock front end assembly to install Autofab wheel travel kits. Note it is easier to disassemble the front end components from the housing sections before removing them from the frame. After taking the coils and shocks out the diff side can be rested on a jack stand and taken apart while it is still in place. This is easier than trying to take it apart on the floor. Remove the hubs and rotor assembly. Remove the spindle. Remove the axle. Remove the upright assembly at the ball joints from the housing. Do both sides. Now remove the 3rd member from the left housing. Disconnect the radius arm bolts, Inner pivot bolts and the big nut at the radius arm pivot bracket. Drop the housings and radius arms out.
Now using the measurements above locate the Autofab radius arm pivot brackets and layout the holes and drill to ½”. Fit the Autofab radius arm to the modified housings and loosely bolt together.
Sometimes this takes some effort as the fit is exact. Now assemble the housing and radius arm up into the frame brackets and the new Radius arm brackets. Pay attention to the bushing assembly or if using hiems the location of the hiem joint. We always set our hiems up 3 full turns out from all the way in. Reassemble the differential case to the left housing. Install the spindle uprights to the housings.
Now install the axles paying attention to the yoke and u-joints at the slider next to the differential. Next, the spindles are installed over the axles. Reassemble hubs and rotors and set bearing preload on the hub bearings.
You can rough out the toe adjustment by clamping angle iron to your rotors, bring both beams up until they are even and looking correct as far as camber is concerned. Simply use a tape measure off the angle iron to adjust toe-in. Start by centering the steering gear making sure the steering wheel is on straight. Now adjust each tie rod to straight ahead until your toe reading is near zero. This should be close enough to get to the alignment shop for final adjustments.
When installing a wheel travel kit I usually tackle getting the stock coil buckets and radius arm hangers off the frame while everything is out. Remove the inner fenders to be able to install the bucket hoop structure. Fit coil buckets and chase holes out to ½”. NOTE on the left side there is a frame ripple that might keep the bucket from sitting flat on the side. It is important to dolly this flat here. On newer Broncos, I will take a pie cut out of the top outside corner the length necessary to take the lump out. Dolly it flat and weld up. For proper fit, it is important the coil bucket sits flat on the side of the frame. The right side does not require any fit work as the frame is flat.